We're bombarded with products and tips for preventing the telltale signs
of aging on our faces, but what about our hair? The unavoidable reality
is that as we get older, so do our locks—but with the right care and
some styling know-how, you can turn back the clock on your mane! We
spoke to celebrity hair stylists Mario Russo of Mario Russo salons, as
well as Ouidad, owner of Ouidad salons and the official expert on curls,
for the inside scoop on cuts, color and styles that will take years off
your looks. Whether you're looking to make a dramatic change or want
some subtle ways to update your look, we've got all the expert secrets
you need to send you on your way to a more youthful you.
Un-condition-al Hair Care
“I think the most important thing for aging hair is for it to always
have the optimum condition,” says Ouidad. As the years go by, hair loses
its pliability—much like our skin—and doesn’t have the same sheen and
bounce. To keep hair looking its best, it's essential to perform regular
deep treatments, either at home or in the salon. Looking for a quick
fix? Ouidad also suggests taking advantage of leave-in conditioners and
styling lotion, which put a lot of play back into tired-looking hair.
Risky Business
“If you want a more youthful look, stay away from more conservative
cuts,” says Russo. Any style that's one-length, neat and lacking layers
runs the risk of looking very dull, he says—and a "safe"-looking cut can
make someone look older than they really are. If you’re 40 and you’d
like to look 30, push the envelope—sport full side-swept bangs or have
your stylist fringe the ends of your hair, as opposed to creating a
blunt edge. A good rule of thumb when you're aiming for younger-looking
hair? Go one step beyond what you’d normally do, says Russo.
Age Gray-cefully
It's the eternal hair dilemma: to embrace the gray or cover it up? If
you’re only 10 to 20 percent gray, both Russo and Ouidad suggest either
dyeing it or placing strategic low-lights around the face to both
minimize the appearance of grays and lessen root maintenance. However,
says Russo, “I do have clients who have a full head of gray hair, and it
can be a very fashion-forward look." The key things to keep in mind if
you decide to go au natural is to keep the hair very short, and to
accessorize appropriately (think colorful neck scarves and bold,
eye-catching jewelry) in order to maintain a certain femininity.
Curly Cue
If you have straight hair, introducing a wave or a curl is another way
to add softness back to your look. “The thing that I love about current
curling trends is that it doesn’t have to be uniform or distributed
evenly throughout the hair,” says Russo. Instead, he suggests selecting a
few sporadic pieces around the face to curl; you may be surprised at
how a few waves around the face can make a dramatic difference. These
days there are ceramic flat irons with doubled edges for both curly and
straight styling; if you’re more comfortable using an older model, a
smaller barrel is easiest to work with. (Psst: Have curly hair and want
to give it a more controlled look? Use this same curling iron technique
for an easy way to tame your mane.) Bangs for Your Buck
Many of the trendy young looks that are in style now are all about
bangs. According to Russo, it helps to think of bangs as a photo frame. A
straight, blunt fringe across the forehead is similar to using a black
picture frame to frame an image—it’s defining. On the other hand, a
messier bang or side-swipe bang can be compared to a lighter-colored
picture frame: it opens up the face a bit more but still frames the
facial features. Most importantly, deciding which type of bangs are most
flattering for you really depends on the shape of your face, so consult
with your stylist before making any major commitments.
Color Me Beautiful
According to Russo, as you get older, it's always a good idea to
introduce more variation to your hair color. That said, you don't need
to make any drastic changes if you're not comfortable doing so. Just a
few highlights that are one or two shades lighter than your natural
color can go a long way toward adding dimension and that desired
youthfulness. (On the other hand, a flat color tends to produce a
harsher effect on older women.) For a natural look, lighten up the locks
around your face with an appropriate shade of blond or light brown
chosen for your skin tone—but stay away from ashy bleach highlights,
which Ouidad finds especially aging for most people.
Mane On the Move
While
upswept styles promote a certain elegance, both Ouidad and Russo agree
that severely pulled-back looks can look extremely conservative and
aged. Says Russo, “I think flowing, playful hair is the most youthful,
and that can be achieved either by letting it all down or by putting it
up but keeping it loose and adding a side-swept bang." Ouidad also
believes giving hair some movement is an effective way to create a more
youthful appearance, and suggests a technique called slicing, which
gives hair dimension without creating the shelflike appearance that
choppy layers sometimes do. Above all else, both stylists suggest that
you consult with your hairdresser and be as honest and vocal as possible
during each visit to ensure you get the look that best suits your style
and appearance.
You Grow, Girl!
Older women tend to go for shorter cuts, believing it’s going to have a
more youthful effect. However, according to Russo, if the cut isn’t done
properly, it can actually have the reverse effect. While most experts
agree that longer hair tends to look softer and more youthful, if you do
go short, you're better off sticking to a more dramatic cut and style.
Regardless of the length, however, the framing is what establishes how
flattering a cut is. Done right, face-framing layers "help lift and
exaggerate the good features while softening age-revealing features,"
says Russo. Take care to maintain layers around your face—even when
you're growing out your hair, he cautions. The most important advice of
all? Wear your hair the way you feel most comfortable; says Ouidad, “to
look youthful and fun, let your hair be the length you wish it to be.”
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